A Visit to San Francisco’s Oldest Chinatown

“I hope you’re hungry because that’s probably the best way to enjoy Chinatown,” said my tour guide, Aaron Friedman, on my first evening in San Francisco. After a sunset walk across the Pacific Ocean under the Golden Gate Bridge, I was eager to see how this oldest Chinatown in the country would satisfy my hunger.
I needn’t have worried. From famous dishes created by chefs who have cooked for Chinese presidents to cozy dumpling shops, this 150-year-old hub of Chinese immigrants offers everything from upscale restaurants to affordable eateries, bakeries, shops and bars.

^{Photo: Max Whitaker}

The iconic Peking duck

Entering through the iconic green-tiled Dragon Gate, I was instantly captivated by the red lanterns, pagoda-style buildings and ornate lamp posts. My first stop was Z & Y Peking Duck, an award-winning restaurant renowned for its Peking duck. Chef Lijun Han works his magic, presenting the dish with perfectly crispy skin – its specialty. Prepared in 48 hours, it is served on the table with a rice paper wrapper and sweet bean sauce. Honestly, I couldn’t get enough of it. Han, who owns the restaurant, has previously served top politicians and diplomats at the Chinese Consulate.

I also tasted Peking duck with caviar—it’s a peculiar combination that explodes flavors. Chinatown is clearly evolving, giving classic dishes a modern twist. I also enjoyed the xiao long bao—soupy dumplings that explode in your mouth—and for those who can handle the heat, there was a fiery chicken dish with explosive chilies.

^{Photo: Max Whitaker}

The next day, I joined a food walk that visited different areas of the city, with the final stop being Chinatown. Despite eating pizza and tacos all day, the aroma of dim sum revived my appetite.

From Dim Sum and Fortune Cookies to Mai Tais

Upon entering House of Dim Sum, I was amazed at the hustle and bustle of this popular spot. Its specialty: homemade, Cantonese-style dim sum and steamed buns. The shrimp dumplings were juicy, the pork buns were delicious, and I was able to enjoy their pork dumplings to the fullest. They open at 6:45 a.m., as dim sum is a popular breakfast item.

^{Photo: Max Whitaker}

^{Photo: Max Whitaker}

Next door, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory – which has been operating in a tiny space since 1962 – plays a key role in making these cookies a staple in Chinese restaurants across the US. Using an old, secret recipe, they make 10,000 fortune cookies per day – and that’s by hand.

^{Photo: Pallavi Pasricha}

I went inside to see the magic for myself. The sweet vanilla scent filled the air as an old machine made cookies. A woman expertly placed fortune slips inside and shaped each cookie with a metal rod. I enjoyed a few, and while I don’t remember my fortune, it was a pleasant experience to watch the process and watch people eagerly open their cookies. You can also customize your fortune for a small fee – something I’d like to do in real life.

^{Photo: Pallavi Pasricha}

Be sure to also visit the bars in Chinatown, especially the dive bars. Li Po, which will celebrate its centennial in 2037, is a local favorite. The Mai Tai, a cocktail that has many fans, including celebrities like Anthony Bourdain, is a must-try. Made with Chinese wine, rum and pineapple juice, this sweet but powerful drink packs a punch.
On my way back, I realized that the charm of Chinatown lies in its vibrant energy and diverse flavors – from the pungent garlic in an alley to the delicate aromas wafting from the pastry shops. It is truly a food lover’s paradise in San Francisco’s most dynamic neighborhood.

About the Author: The joy of exploring new places has kept Pallavi Pasricha on the road for over 20 years and she has traveled to over 30 countries. For her, a destination is more than just its landmarks—it is a complex blend of hidden gems, the stories of its people, and the unique flavors of its local cuisine. For her, every quiet lane, bustling market, and traditional dish tells a story that adds depth to the experience. She finds joy in uncovering lesser-known places that reveal the true character of a place.