Banarasi is being transformed due to the wave of westernisation. Think Banarasi in modern silhouettes like corsets, tops, pantsuits and even short dresses.
A fashion staple during festivals and wedding seasons in India is Banarasi weave. Be it a deep red silk Banarasi saree adorned with gleaming golden zari or a statement dupatta elevating a simple kurta set, a Banarasi creation can make you look instantly festive-ready with its royal appeal.
In recent years, Banarasi has made a comeback in men’s clothing in many ways – kurta, safa, shawl, bandhgala and sherwani. Contrary to common misconception, Banarasi was not limited to women’s wardrobe. During the Mughal period, when Banarasi weaving rose to prominence, emperors wore garments crafted using this exquisite traditional technique.
Banarasi becomes fearless
Now, Banarasi is undergoing another change, this time through a wave of westernization. Think Banarasi in modern silhouettes like corsets, tops, pantsuits and even short dresses.
“Banaras has long been celebrated for sarees, dupattas and kurta sets, but today’s shift towards modern silhouettes is making it a global statement,” says Khushi Shah, creative director of Shanti Banaras label. , known for its authentic Banarasi handloom creations, is all set to venture into contemporary designs that will attract a diverse, international clientele with its upcoming collection.
Designer Aditi Gupta, whose creations are available at Karma Ambawatta, believes this change is more about innovation than westernisation, and the younger generation should be given credit for this refreshing version of the Banarasi technique.
“Today’s buyers, especially the younger generation, are looking for items that combine heritage with functionality. They want apparel that not only makes a statement but also reflects their personality and contemporary style. As a result, we are seeing greater demand for unique interpretations of Banarasi in experimental silhouettes, be it for festive wear or everyday luxury,” explains Gupta. India Today,
fresh off the runway
While the Banarasi technique in these new designer creations is rooted in age-old traditions, the silhouette has been re-imagined with a contemporary touch. This trend of modernization was also evident at the Lakme Fashion Week 2024, where a range of designers gave a fresh take on traditional textiles.
Take designer Monisha Jaising’s collection, for example, which included a series of Banarasi high-slits and asymmetrical skirts paired with shiny blouses. Riddhima Kapoor Sahni, who became a showstopper for the designer, also walked the ramp in a strapless Banarasi gown. Apart from this, the designer herself was seen in a sleeveless Banarasi crop top for the final bow.
Delhi-based designer Amit Agarwal, known for his innovative creations, has also advocated a modern makeover of Banarasi. His new collection, is called Banarasi EditBanarasi is all about the upliftment of textiles with modern interpretations of traditional draping styles.
The trend was promoted by several celebrities like Priyanka Chopra, Kriti Sanon and Saba Azad at the inauguration of the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Center in Mumbai last year. She rocked different versions of Banarasi gown at the fashion event.
And this trend is only going to grow further this year as more and more designers continue to play with Banarasi to create ensembles beyond the usual sarees and lehengas. Gaurika Rai of textile label Warp n Weft unveiled a new collection in collaboration with House of Asra, celebrating the modern women of traditional India with Banarasi mini dresses, maxi dresses and corsets.
“Naturally, people are always keen to try something new, and it is time to introduce a new fashion statement that redefines traditional spaces – one that retains the authenticity of exquisite Banarasi textiles while embracing modern charm. Keeps. Launching the Western-inspired collection caters to those who want more than a classic saree, suit, lehenga, gharara, or floor-length skirt for special occasions,” says Gaurika Rai, CEO, Warp ‘n Weft.
Banarasi jumpsuits, trousers and pantsuits are adding to the charm of Banarasi weave in everyday wear. Just pair a crisp white shirt with Banarasi brocade pants and pair it with basic heels – you can easily pull off this look.
“These new silhouettes enhance the versatility of Banarasi textiles and open doors to international markets. By doing so, the Banaras Weaving Group also gets new opportunities to grow and flourish. “When approached with respect for the craftsmanship and original weaving techniques, these designs can connect generations, celebrating heritage while evolving to meet modern tastes,” said WeaverStory CEO and Says Founder Nishant Malhotra.
Although the timeless charm of Banarasi sarees and lehengas remains untouched, if modern elegance is what defines your style, then you should definitely consider adding a Banarasi modern touch to your attire this wedding season.
